A forkful of comfort in every biteEat This!, Latest Issue Thursday, May 25th, 2017
When my furry four-legged friend was alive, I would take him for a short walk to his groomer on Park Blvd. Along the way I noticed a pie shop was under construction and made a note to check it out when it opened. The mental note was forgotten until recently when I decided to drop by Pop Pie Company. I will tell you Marie Callender’s got nothing.
The comfortable intimate space has a clean industrial vibe. White open rafters and subway tiles, black wainscot and padded benches, a gray concrete floor. Large roll-up windows let in lots of warm sunshine and gentle breezes. Bright Edison lights are cleverly hung from wooden rolling pins. Selections of pies are displayed in gleaming glass and chrome cases. Seating is at communal tables or on the patio. Orders are placed and picked up at the counter.
Brandon, the friendly bearded tattooed barista, greeted me warmly and walked me through the menu, which features artisanal savory and sweet pies. Handcrafted meat (classic chicken, pork shoulder in tomatillo), vegetarian and vegan pies (roasted vegetables and panang curry or jackfruit) are served with fresh sides and salads. They also offer a limited number of local craft beers and specialty sodas, waters and gourmet coffee. I ordered the Steak and Ale Pie ($8.50), a side of creamed corn ($3) and a glass of beer ($6).
Plenty for All from the Fall Brewing Co. is a light-bodied Pilsner with 4.8 percent alcohol by volume. The golden hued brew is surprisingly robust for a Pilsner with a creamy smooth mouth feel, a tangy resiny flavor on the tongue and a slightly bitter finish. Overall a very pleasant pour.
Succulent bites of slow-braised beef, combined with mushrooms, barley and carrots in dark ale gravy, are concealed beneath a buttery flaky golden brown pastry crust. The five inch pie is packed with flavor and there’s a forkful of comfort in every bite. The tender kernels of sweet corn are served in a velvety cream cheese reduction sauce with a dash of salt and pepper; a humble dish elevated to new heights. Delicious.
I rounded out my repast (see what I did there?) with a three inch Lemon Meringue Pie ($4.25). The smooth lemony filling is packed with rind zest and is the perfect balance between sweet and tart. The dense meringue is well-scorched, charred in places like a marshmallow toasted over a campfire, and could have been fluffier.
Pop Pie Co. opened their doors six months ago and has quickly become a popular gathering spot in University Heights. They’ve also garnished praise from a number of sources including Zagat which included the honey bourbon pie on their list of San Diego’s thirty essential dishes. Delivery is not available but you can place your order online or grab a dozen mini-pies to go. They are open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. and offer breakfast pies, too.
There’s a reason Yelp reviewers give the pie shop a 4.5 star rating and you should find out why. Eat this, hungry readers. You’ll be glad you did.
Pop Pie Co.
4404 Park Blvd.
Open Mon. – Sun. 8 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Short URL: http://lgbtweekly.com/?p=79979