In the immortal words of The Nanny theme song, it was “style and flair” that got Fran Drescher the gig as nanny in the Sheffield’s home. With the addition of style and flair to a common house gathering, you can get the gig as an all-star host or hostess (hopefully sans the nasal voice) of a kick-ass cocktail party.

I have been a guest at, and have hosted, some pretty amazing cocktail parties over the years, but I have been to some egregious ones too. As I was recently putting a cocktail party together for a summer themed event at the end of this month, I found myself outlining the elements and essentials one needs to make (or break) the party. Though a small list: Atmosphere, food, cocktail supplies and guest choice, any one of these items chosen poorly will surely throw your party off kilter. Each contains many subtopics for delineation, however there is one string that ties them all together and that is the cocktail party theme.

Now don’t go out and buy a bunch of teepee items for an Indian summer theme (unless you really want to). When I develop ideas for parties I usually lean toward more abstract elements such as color and texture. One of my Christmas cocktail parties was planned with purple ostrich feathers and gold leaf in mind. Another, “baby cheetah” and no I was not high. Other elements that are a bit more concrete could include: a music genre, artist, song, time period or even a book. Regardless of the inspiration is the ultimate maintenance of the idea in atmosphere, food and libation making you the ultimate party dominatrix (insert sinister laugh here).

Atmosphere: I could never touch on all elements associated with atmosphere but there are certain things that are the easiest to manipulate and are essential for me. I like to have a lot of candles burning with minimal artificial light (except in the kitchen). I personally prefer a more sedate music choice, such as jazz or the newer “lounge” mixes. A silent visual on the television can also provide a subtle distraction. Lastly, it is important to specify attire. You do not want shorts and flip flop clad guests to feel out of place in a room full of cocktail dresses.

For my upcoming “end of summer” cocktail party I will play rock and roll songs that are appropriately chosen, Suddenly Last Summer will be screened without sound and I will suggest guests wear mostly white as uniforms for the croquet tournament that will be going on.

Food: While developing this portion of your cocktail menu it is important to think three tiered. The first being stationary food plate(s) coupled with hors d’oeuvres. Having stationary food allows the guests to nosh on their own accord when they first arrive and start to socialize. The hors d’oeuvres provide an elapsed food experience during the cocktail party time frame. The second is the ease in preparation; you will want most everything prepared in advance so that you can enjoy the party too. Last, food volume should be based upon start time. A cocktail party is not designed to provide a meal, but keep in mind that if you plan to throw it at six, guests may not have eaten dinner and may be hungrier than at a cocktail party with an eight o’clock start time.

Photo by Photos.com

For my stationary plate, I usually choose a wedge of brie topped with warmed compote whose ingredients match the season, served with a couple of roasted heads of garlic (that will make the place smell great by the way) and some toasted crostini and crackers. However elaborate or simple you choose, the stationary food is now out of your sight and mind so that you can focus on the hors d’oeuvres.

Depending on the theme and space, you can choose to tray pass or set out the hors d’oeuvres in strategic places so that all guests can access them from where they are currently located. The latter requires more trays with less food on them to cover the whole area of the party where the former can be placed on one tray and distributed to all the guests by someone carrying it around (I usually choose to do this myself but you could always outsource to a willing friend.) Of course, all this is assuming you have serving trays. If you do not, many things in the kitchen can suffice including a cutting board or cookie sheet lined with a linen napkin. Be creative and don’t forget to provide cocktail napkins (or a close facsimile thereof).

Cocktail: I prefer to have a signature cocktail served to everyone as they arrive. Guests can bring booze they prefer or even decline the cocktail (how gauche) but the initial distribution is fun and shows that they are in the hands of a good host. Wine spritzers are a good choice for ease, budget and general (non) intoxication of the guests but are not the most fancy of beverages. I will use one at the aforementioned summer celebration that will mix gewürztraminer, green tea, ginger ale and peach schnapps.

If you have a friend who considers themselves a mixologist, solicit them for cocktail recipe advice. If they have come up with the cocktail recipe, then they may be eager to bartend at the party too. While developing the cocktail flavor, keep your foods in mind giving a profile that will maintain the mood. There are so many artesian liqueurs on the market now that you may have difficulty choosing. Great liqueurs I have used often are: Canton (ginger flavor), St. Germain (elderflower infused brandy), Benedictine, Chartreuse and Poma (pomegranate flavor). The nice thing about liqueurs is that they are not the primary ingredient in a cocktail so, although the bottle might be expensive, you will have quite a bit left over for the next endeavor. Under-used mixers such as ginger ale, lemonade, iced rooibos or green tea or coconut milk can also dress up otherwise boring cocktails.

I think the most manageable amount of hors d’oeuvres to plan on is three. Selecting choices of meat, vegetable and fish base will cover the whole range of picky guests’ dietary restrictions and gives a nice variety to those that will eat every one. I usually plan to do two “rounds” of each hors d’oeuvres, staggered to last the first third or half of the projected party time frame. The last hors d’oeuvres I did were shrimp and fennel ceviche on endive spears, grilled fillet on a crostini with arugula and aioli and small servings of melon gazpacho.

Once the ingredients are decided, you’ll need ice. Get lots of ice! Did I mention ice? I have been to so many parties, cocktail or not, where the ice has run out or wasn’t even there to begin with. Cocktails need ice, whether provided or brought by guests, so stock the freezer or cooler to the brim, store it in the sink; I don’t care how, just have lots of ice and then enjoy a libation to help loosen up after all that planning.

Duck leg confit

Confit – the traditional preparation of cooking proteins such as pork or (more traditionally) duck underneath fat – may at first not seem like the most appropriate topic in the months of bared mid-drifts and love handles but, as with most classic techniques in modern foodie vogue, it is now associated with anything cooked under low temperature oils for long periods of time.

This process can be applied to the produce available now at the farmer’s market and with a little patience will produce delicious condiments for the tops of toast or as an accompaniment to your dinner protein.

Pronounced “kohn-FEE,” this traditional method of preservation with salt and fat is associated with Gascony, France and the final product will last up to six months in the refrigerator. Once the process is substituted with olive oil, the shelf life decreases to about one month but greatly reduces the fat content. More sturdy market produce holds up best such as garlic, citrus rinds and root vegetables but once you experiment a little bit, you may choose to try other items such as tomatoes.

The basic technique using olive oil is very straight forward. Enough oil is brought to a simmer that covers the product and is allowed to cook for one hour. Once cool, you can aliquot the portions in airtight jars and store in the refrigerator. The contents can be stretched out by adding more oil if necessary and gives you two separate food products. The tender contents of the jar and the oil that is now infused with the essence of the contents that can be used as a garnish on soup, a drizzle on fish or used as the oil for a simple vinaigrette.

Garlic is the simplest form of confit to execute and is a great example because it is available year round. Simply peel 24 cloves of garlic and place in a deep sauce pan with enough olive oil to cover (about 1 cup) and allow to simmer for an hour. This garlic is so soft it can be used as a spread on toast or included with caramelized onions on top of a grilled pork chop.

Southern California supplies a large diversity of citrus that can be used for confit and especially so in the summer months. I like to use Meyer lemons when available but regular lemons, oranges or even grapefruit will do. There are two specifics to keep in mind when preparing the citrus for confit. First, when peeling, be sure that you are peeling the strips thin enough that you are only getting the zest and not the pith (the bitter white underneath). The second is to blanch the rinds three times so that they do not lose their color. To blanch the rinds, submerge them in boiling water for ten seconds then plunge them in an ice bath then repeat twice more. The rinds should be long strips of the zest peeled with a vegetable peeler. For four lemons submerge the strips in 1/2 cup olive oil, 1/4 cup canola oil, two tablespoons of lemon juice, a pinch of salt and one clove of garlic brought to a simmer. Allow to cook for one hour and serve as described before. This lemon confit is great as a salad topping that is tossed using a vinaigrette made with the oil the lemon is stored in.

Another item at the farmer’s market that lends itself to confit is fennel. Once the stalks and fronds are cut from the fennel, julienne the bulb and submerge in about 1-1/2 cups olive oil with 2 strips of the lemon zest reserved from the previous paragraph, the shavings of 2 carrots and a pinch of cayenne. These vegetables are small enough that they will be done after 20 minutes of simmering under the oil. This is best served as an accompaniment to fish or as a garnish to a cold soup.

The oil method is great to preserve this produce longer than they would last on the counter but also works as a lower fat and more cost effective method on proteins. Duck legs and fat can be very expensive while a pork shoulder and olive oil can be purchased reasonably when on sale. Use the recipe below to try your hand at creating tender morsels of meat in between following the suggestions in this column. Have fun learning this classic cooking method and don’t forget to say “kohn-FEE.”

bobby’s recipe

Pork shoulder confit

You’ll want to start this recipe at least two weeks in advance so that it can sit under the oil an appropriate amount of time.

1 pork shoulder (4 pounds)
6 crushed bay leaves
1 tablespoon of kosher salt
2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence
2 teaspoons crushed black pepper
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon allspice
2 sliced onions
8 cloves peeled garlic
6 fresh sprigs of thyme
1 fresh sprig of rosemary
1 quart olive oil

First, cut the port shoulder into three inch cubes with all the fat left on the meat.

Combine the bay leaves, kosher salt, Herbes de Provence, black pepper, thyme, sage, coriander and allspice. Toss the cubed pork in the dry mixture and allow to sit, chilled, overnight.

Preheat the oven to 275 degrees.

Place the onions, garlic, thyme and rosemary in the bottom of an ovenproof pot with lid (shallow is best). Add in the pork and pour in enough olive oil to cover the contents by one inch (about 1 quart depending on the depth of the pot). Place the pot in the oven and allow to cook for four hours, turning the contents every now and then, always ensuring it is covered with oil.

Once tender, remove the pork with a slotted spoon and place in a storage container. Strain the olive oil and pour over the pork so that it covers it by one inch. Seal the container and store at least two weeks (and up to two months) in the refrigerator. Reserve and freeze the rest of the olive oil for a later use (such as pork cassoulet).

Reheat the contents and remove from the oil with a slotted spoon when ready to serve on a toasted roll, perhaps topped with some cold fennel confit.

Oysters on the half shell

Ascribed to Cleopatra and Casanova, an oyster on the half shell has been an element of sexual connotation almost by default. The truth behind the oyster as an aphrodisiac lies in an elevated content of zinc. Oysters deliver 110-1,200 percent of the recommended daily allowance (RDA) for every 3.5 ounces consumed. Zinc is associated with increased levels of testosterone and dopamine which facilitate a more hungry sex drive not to mention a boost to the immune system.

Other foods high in zinc and just as sexually alluring to the foodie include caviar, chocolate and pate. But aphrodisiacal treats are not limited to those that contain high concentrations of zinc. Celery is known to increase pheromone excretion and raw garlic has been attributed to an increased blood flow to the sex organs. Some are more visually stimulating, such as the fig, avocado and banana while others lower inhibitions chemically, namely alcohol.

Combining both alcohol with a shucked oyster is one of my favorite ways to decrease my inhibitions while elevating my sexual motivation. The oyster shooter is an oversized shot of spicy vodka, cocktail sauce and an oyster served with a lemon squeeze. This is a cocktail of full oral intensity lending heat from the vodka and cocktail sauce which is then cooled by the oyster rolling over the tongue.

Aside from the shooter, I had never been a fan of eating oysters on the half. My revelation came a few years ago in Georgetown, D.C. I had placed two orders of oyster shooters after a long day of shopping. When the order arrived, at first what seemed to my chagrin, I was faced with a dozen raw oysters on the half shell with two airport bottles of Absolut Peppar. This was the D.C. translation of oyster shooters, a half dozen shucked oysters with the booze as a chaser. I had never before sat to enjoy oysters unadulterated but was not going to send the food back because of a user error and was sure as hell not going to let my dollars go to waste. So I went in with conviction. I learned slowly how to enjoy the lunch but what surprised me most was the sweet taste I had in the back of my throat for the rest of the day. It was like heroin for the foodie. I’ve been chasing that first high ever since.

These raw oysters inherently incite the feeling to blush with flavor descriptors such as briney, sweet and creamy along with the smooth and delicate consistency of a meat that easily slides down your throat. For those who like a more acidic taste note, the mignonette which is the traditional oyster accoutrement of vinegar infused with red onion will satisfy the craving.

Although spitters are quitters, I do understand that the raw oyster is not for all. Fortunately unlike some co-factors and other enzymes, the zinc content of the oyster and absorption by the body is not changed by cooking. Oysters Rockefeller (recipe included) is a great alternative and tasty way for an easy cooked preparation.

Whether enjoying oysters on the half at Oceanaire in the Gaslamp with a perfectly paired champagne or oyster shooters at South Beach Bar and Grill in Ocean Beach remember that though alcohol may lower inhibitions and the oysters lift your dick, too much booze will have the opposite effect. Happy Pride to everyone and down the hatch.

bobby’s recipe

Oysters Rockefeller

Oysters Rockefeller

Of course it is better to shuck them yourself but if you do not know how or simply don’t want to, have your seafood guy shuck the oysters for you a couple hours before preparation, reserving the deep side of the shell in a separate bag. Also, although rock salt works well for cooking and presentation, you can substitute dried beans or rice you have in the cupboard to stabilize the shells.

An appetizer for 4 people:

20 shucked oysters
6 slices of bacon
1/4 pound finely chopped spinach
1/2 cup minced scallions (whites)
1/4 cup plain breadcrumbs or panko
1/4 cup minced parsley
1/8 cup minced celery heart
2 cloves minced garlic
1 stick of butter
1 tablespoon of Pernod (optional)
2 tablespoons anchovy paste (optional)
Pinch of cayenne
Lemon wedges
Rock salt

First, cook the bacon, crumble then set aside.

In a bowl toss to combine the spinach, scallions, breadcrumbs or panko, parsley, celery heart and garlic.

In a large sauté pan melt the butter over medium high heat until the foam subsides. Add in the vegetable-breadcrumb mix and sauté until wilted (about 2 minutes). Add in the Pernod, anchovy paste (both optional) and the cayenne. Set aside and allow to cool. In an ovenproof baking sheet or casserole dish, fill with about a quarter to half an inch of rock salt (or dried beans) and arrange the oyster shells evenly. Place an oyster in each shell half, spooning a small amount of the oyster liquid on top to moisten. Using a small spoon, evenly distribute the vegetable-breadcrumb mix onto the oysters. Sprinkle the bacon evenly on top and finish it off with another sprinkle of breadcrumbs. Bake the oysters at 475 degrees for 15 minutes. Place some more rock salt (or dried beans) on a platter and arrange the oysters. Garnish with some reserved parsley and lemon wedges. Enjoy!

Lobster, an American favorite

A greenish-grey exoskeleton, antennae and five pairs of arms. Sounds like a description of an invading alien race instead of one of the most sought after proteins in the American diet, lobster.

Summer to me always screams lobster. Every year, we would dig a large shallow hole in the yard, start a fire and throw in rocks until glowing hot. Once the rocks were topped with copious amounts of seaweed, in went the lobsters and later clams (or steamers as we called them) and any other seafood of choice. In the summer months, lobsters move to more shallow waters to breed and molt which makes them easier to catch and thus lowers the price, which I can remember seeing going below $5 per pound. We don’t always have that price point in San Diego but I always keep my eye on the lobster tank next to the seafood counter at the market.

Lobsters come in two varieties that are available year round. The Maine lobster is caught off the northeast coast all the way up to Canada. They have large front claws and very sweet meat inside. Off the Baja coast are the rock lobsters, smaller than their cousins and lacking the large front claw. The flavor of the rock lobster meat is not as sweet and can be a bit more fibrous. One thing in common for both of the lobster types is the meaty tail, which is often sold separated and previously frozen.

Buying previously frozen lobster tail affords the squeamish a good taste of the treat without having to confront a live beast in the kitchen but it also lends tougher meat with less flavor. To combat this, choose recipes that include a good amount of sauce such as a traditional lobster roll and be very careful to not overcook the meat. I always look forward to killing my own lobster because it is probably the freshest piece of meat I will ever put on a plate but it is necessary to hold to your convictions, otherwise the animal may suffer more than necessary.

There are two ways to kill lobsters. The first is probably the most recognized which is to plunge it headfirst into salted boiling water. This method is fine to enjoy a whole lobster with drawn butter or to prepare the meat for further, more elaborate, recipes such as Thermidor (gratineed in the shell) or a l’Americaine (simmered with tomato, garlic and herbs in white wine). Cook’s note: lobsters do not scream when immersed in boiling water! Any noise heard from the lidded pot is air escaping from beneath the shell. The lobsters are done after about 15-20 minutes in a rolling boil when an antenna can be pulled easily from the head.

The second method, and my preferred, is to kill the lobster before cooking. Face the lobster towards you on a cutting board with a reservoir to catch the liquids. Using a very sharp chef’s knife, position the pointed end down just behind the head where the body joint is. Quickly insert the knife vertically and bring the handle down so that the knife finishes in the horizontal position and the head has been split in two. This method is definitely not for the faint of heart but I feel it is the most humane because it severs all nerve endings and kills the lobster immediately. Personally, if having a choice, I would choose the guillotine before being boiled alive! Cook’s note: the lobster’s legs will move after it is dead due to residual electrical impulses that trigger the muscles to contract.

I choose the later method not only because I think it is more humane but also because I like to use the meat raw (as in the included recipe) and not softened by boiling water. Whichever method you choose based on recipe choice and preference, the lobsters should be cut in half lengthwise to ease the preparation. If boiling the lobsters allow them to cool to a reasonable temperature to handle, turn the lobster so that it is facing away from you and insert the knife into the incision at the head. Bring your knife down carefully to split the entire body in half. If cooking Maine lobster, remove the large limbs where they attach to the body and give the thickest parts a good whack with the back of your kitchen knife allowing easier access to the meat.

Whether you cook rock or Maine lobster, once split you will see a green material inside the cavity which is the liver or tamale. Some find this to be utterly delicious on its own but I usually forgo the green mater unless I choose to put it through a sieve and use it in a sauce. The only thing left to do now is eat the beast. The process can be a bit daunting and requires some kitchen shears but is worth the effort.

bobby’s recipe

Pan roasted lobster with brandy-butter sauce

This recipe can be made with four previously frozen tails if you do not want to split a live lobster or you can kill them first in boiling water and remove before the meat is done which should take no longer than five minutes. Be sure that the claws are cracked well enough so that they can be eaten with little fuss.

Plan to kill the lobster just before cooking and follow the method in the column separating the large claws from the body and removing the tail. This will give you six raw lobster segments per animal. Be sure to remove any intestinal track from the tail as you would with shrimp. Remove the tamale and press with a fork until smooth then set aside.

2 Maine (or Canadian) lobsters (about 2 pounds each)
3 tablespoons peanut oil, bacon fat or ghee
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1/2 cup brandy
1/4 cup dry white wine

Pre-heat the oven to 500 degrees.

In a large, ovenproof sauté pan, heat the peanut oil, bacon fat or ghee over the highest heat for five minutes. Add in the lobster segments, shell side down, and gently agitate until they have taken on a red color with char marks from the oil (about four minutes). Turn all the pieces over and add the tamale to the middle of the sauté pan. Place the pan in the oven and cook three minutes.

Return to the stovetop. Reduce heat to medium high and add the shallots. Sauté quickly and add the brandy. Ignite the liquor and cook, gently agitating, until the flames have subsided. Add in the dry white wine and allow to reduce (making sure the largest part of the claws are in the liquid.

I am continually talking about using leftover kitchen liquids as sorbet but have not delineated the exact process or fundamental concerns to its preparation. I could devote an entire book chapter to the principles behind ice cream making but here I’ll give you a concise overview.

An ice cream maker is one of those unnecessary kitchen utilities that I find worth the investment. Most stand mixers will sell an ice cream mixing component separately; it is a bowl that you first freeze then fit onto the base, a special paddle stirrer fits onto the top and you apply your liquid mix. Other, stand alone, ice cream makers are sold that do not require the stand mixer but do take up a little more room in the cupboards.

At first glance the process of making ice cream is easy; follow directions to make a flavored liquid mixture and apply it to the mixer per manufacturer’s instructions. However if you plan to explore and improve upon existing recipes the concept behind an ice cream’s texture and flavor should be understood.

The flavor and texture of an ice cream will vary depending on the fat content of the liquid mix. Of course, a higher fat content will give a richer flavor but there must be a balance between liquid water, milk fat, milk protein and sugar to coat and adhere to the ice crystals formed. The addition of sugar not only imparts flavor but changes the physical properties of the liquid mixture; lowering the freezing point which allows some liquid to be trapped between the ice crystal lattice. Basically, the ice crystals form a little package of flavor that bursts onto the taste buds once melted … and the smaller the ice crystals the smoother the package.

The size of the ice crystals is directly proportional to the time it takes the mixture to freeze; a liquid mixture that has been brought to a temperature just above freezing will form very small ice crystals immediately when added to the frozen bowl of the ice cream maker, forming the initial lattice for all other ice crystals to form on. The slower it takes the liquid to come to freezing temperature, the longer it takes the ice crystals to form and thus a larger ice crystal lattice that penetrates the taste buds instead of melting quickly on the tongue.

The liquid mixture described is the simplest mix, known as the Philadelphia style. I use this to make a very simple vanilla bean ice cream by dissolving two-thirds cup sugar in 3 cups of heavy cream with the seeds of one vanilla bean and a teaspoon of vanilla extract. Once it is chilled, I spike it with a quarter cup of cognac before applying it to the ice cream machine.

Another style of ice cream is the French or custard style, aptly named for the inclusion of egg yolk to the liquid mixture that, once heated, emulsifies with the water component allowing a greater liquid content within the crystals. Whichever mixture you choose, once the ice cream maker has agitated the mixture to incorporate enough air and brought it to a decent hardness, remove it to a shallow storage container which exposes more surface and allows it to harden faster.

The same principles described here for ice creams are the same (for the most part) for sorbets with the exclusion of dairy and the addition of acid. The final target content of both sugar and acid in my liquid sorbet mixes are about 30 percent and 0.5 percent respectively to the final volume. I also like to add a complimentary flavor of liqueur to the mix that does not freeze in the final product, giving a good liquid quality (as described for ice creams). I think the best base mix is to make simple syrup of sugar, light corn syrup and water (1/2 cup, 1/2 cup and 3/4 cup). Once chilled, I add in the juice of one lemon, 1 cup of your flavoring, a pinch of salt and 1/4 cup of the liqueur.

Once you have developed a base mix for either an ice cream or sorbet and understand the contributing factors of the ingredients, it will be easy to manipulate existing recipes or to create your own. You’ll become your own kitchen sleuth and be able to present with the utmost confidence.

bobby’s recipe

Vanilla ice cream bombe with raspberry sorbet and lemon curd

The bombe (pronounced bahm) is, traditionally, a layered dessert of ice cream and sorbet or sherbet with a custard center. With the proper planning, the components can be made a few weeks ahead in your home ice cream maker or can be made semi-homemade a la Sandra Lee by purchasing quality sorbet and ice cream while making the lemon curd yourself which is fairly simple. Plan your assembly well as each layer of the bombe will take about an hour to harden.

For the lemon curd

4 large egg yolks
Zest of one lemon
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1-1/2 cups sugar
3 tablespoons of butter
Pinch of salt

In a sauce pan over medium high heat combine the egg yolks, zest of one lemon, lemon juice and sugar. Whisk to combine and continue stirring with a wooden spoon until the mixture has thickened and reached 160 degrees (about 10 minutes). Remove from the heat and stir in butter and salt. Store the curd with a film of cling wrap directly on the surface and chill until ready for use.

Bombe assembly

Serve one bombe per person and make (or purchase) the appropriate amount of ice cream and sorbet. The curd recipe makes one cup, which should be more than enough for at least 12 individual servings.

Line a 6-ounce soufflé cup with enough tin foil that will be able to enclose the final product. Spread softened vanilla ice cream into the soufflé cup so that it fits up the sides and on the bottom and is about 1/8 inch thick. Return the soufflé cups to the freezer and harden the spread vanilla ice cream. Once hard to the touch, spread a layer of raspberry sorbet inside the soufflé cup at about the same thickness and shape one eighth inch below the vanilla ice cream layer. Return to the freezer to harden. Spoon in a tablespoon dollop of the curd right in the center cavity. At this point, all the layers should be flush and the vanilla ice cream has a lip of about one eighth inch above the rest. Allow the curd to harden in the freezer then spread some softened vanilla ice cream on the top to seal the bombe. Fold the aluminum foil up and around the bombe and set back in the freezer to harden.

Serve on an individual plate with some lemon zest and a sprig of mint.

I think it is safe to assume that most of us have been brought up on the potato: French fried, baked, mashed, stewed or gratinéed, its versatility is apparent while lending nutritional components to our daily recommended requirements.

But which potato to choose from the wide assortment available in today’s produce section? Almost all available lend themselves nicely to boiling which is the focus of this week’s column.

I think the boiled potato is often overlooked because, at first glance, it appears to be unflavored, unexciting and otherwise undesirable – yet many, very flavorful, uses are available. Boiling the potato in overly salted water or using chicken stock infuses the potatoes with more flavors. If you don’t want to waste the stock, remove the boiled potatoes and reserve the liquid to make a potato soup as described in the recipe included. I think this is a really great kitchen time saver because the potatoes first boiled are reserved for daily use while the soup can be made and then frozen for later.

My choice of potato is usually the red-skinned or Yukon Gold. During this period of late spring/early summer, new (baby) varieties of both types should be available. Not to be confused with fingerling potatoes, which are heirloom varieties, bred to be very small when full grown. Also available in specialty food and farmer’s markets are the purple or blue potatoes. These act as a great addition of color (not to mention conversation piece) while imparting the same cooking characteristics of its white-fleshed cousin.

So now what are we going to do with the boiled potato? The most common application would be the potato salad, which although delicious, has been done to death – so I will not go into detail here. Another place for the inclusion of a boiled potato is the salad. Salade Niçoise (pronounced knee-swaz) is probably the most famous, containing boiled potato and egg along with haricot verts (baby green beans), tomato, olives, tuna and the occasional anchovy. I include boiled red or new potatoes in a spinach salad that I toss in champagne vinaigrette with roasted red pepper, raw red onion, bacon pieces, quarters of boiled egg and top with slices of rare beef.

Another method I have employed to the boiled potato is squishing it down and further roasting it with butter, olive oil and herbs, served as a side in lieu of mashed or baked. I use new Yukon Gold potatoes that are no greater than the size of your palm and boil them in chicken stock (reserved for the vichyssoise recipe) until they are just fork tender, which takes about 15-20 minutes on a high boil.

Once they are boiled, I drain and cool the potatoes before squishing them down with my palm on an oiled and salted sheet pan. I then paint the tops of the potatoes with an oil and melted butter mixture, sprinkle them with herbs and bake in a 450-degree oven for 20 minutes. The use of butter gives them a golden brown color and their texture is a nice hybrid between the mashed and roasted preparations.

So now whether red-skinned, yellow, baby or purple, we have the boiled potato on our tables in one form or another. Diversity paralleled only by its versatility of preparation and applied technique. The only thing left to do is present your final dish and enjoy.

bobby’s recipe

Fennel vichyssoise

This traditional cold potato soup is very easy to prepare and is a nice starter for a warm summer night dinner. It is not the most low calorie item so serve conservative portions since we are all trying to maintain our bathing suit figures. The inclusion of fennel adds some sophistication to the flavor without changing the stark color that I find beautiful served in a dark bowl and garnished with a drizzle of olive oil and a scant sprinkle of parsley.

This recipe will serve eight people.

2 tablespoons of butter
2 tablespoons of olive oil
5 cups thinly sliced fennel bulb (about three)
3 cups thinly sliced onions (two large)
4 cups chicken stock
1 pound of white potatoes cubed to 1⁄2 inch squares
2 cups of half and half
Salt and white pepper to taste
Freshly chopped parsley
2 tablespoons of Pernod (optional)

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter and olive oil over medium-high heat. Once the foam has subsided, add in the fennel bulb and the onions. Sauté until the fennel is tender and the onions have become translucent, stirring frequently and adjusting the heat so that the contents do not brown (about 15 minutes). Add in the chicken stock and potatoes. Reduce heat to simmer, cover and allow to cook for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are very tender.

Remove from the heat and puree with an immersion blender or in batches using a counter blender. For a thinner soup, add in cold half and half. For a thicker soup, heat the half and half to a simmer before adding to the soup, return to heat and simmer for an additional 10 minutes.

Chill the soup uncovered until cold, then season with salt and white pepper to taste (a cold soup will require more seasoning than one served hot).

Optional: Stir in 2 tablespoons of Pernod to spike the soup and add more of an anise flavor before serving. Once spooned into the bowls, add a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of fresh chopped parsley.

I may be past my prime – but from now until July, strawberries will be in theirs. Of course they are bought with good intentions but probably not a wealth of ideas. It’s just one of those items that look so good in the market that one wants to buy, and then ends up growing mold in the back of the fridge.

Eating the berries raw becomes boring as does adding them to your yogurt, smoothie or cereal. Identifying the key flavors and (as it may seem) odd additions will bring these banal berries to the center of everyone’s focus.

Strawberries are grouped in the rose family and have been grown in the Americas and Europe for centuries. Through careful cultivation and crossbreeding, commercial strawberries are very hearty and flavorful depending on their maturity and upbringing. But caveat emptor, strawberry plants that are purchased for cultivation from your local nurseries are often susceptible to disease and fruits sold in the market vary in flavor depending on size, ripeness and variety-type.

Whether you decide to dice, slice or otherwise heat the component, strawberries are there for the consumer.

Aside from a bowl of the fresh cut fruit, strawberries can be put through a variety of processes that range dramatically in their degree of effort. In abundance, the fruit can be preserved for those lovers of jelly and jams. The quintessential strawberry pie is presented at most July 4 functions with the addition of blueberries and whipped cream making a red, white and blue star. Or, the maceration of the berry which affords a greater abundance of preparation and technique.

Maceration is the use of osmosis to extract the liquids of a solute (the solid component) into the solvent (the liquid component) or more generally speaking, sprinkling the berries with either sugar or salt and allowing the mixture to equilibrate in its own juices. Osmosis is the natural movement of water to an adjacent environment in which less water molecules are present.

In this case, the water from the berries moves to the surface while the sugar replaces the water content of the berry, leaving an amazingly sweet and flavored liquid to use to your benefit and a berry that has been naturally softened and prepared for the palate.

Try using a more Mediterranean flare of raw fruit with volcanic sea salt as a starter to your meal or incorporate balsamic vinegar as your solute for an interesting finish. But, as always do your research and present what is there for the taking.

bobby’s recipe

Rhubarb sabayon with balsamic macerated strawberries

Although this is not the traditional method of making a sabayon, it streamlines the process very nicely using a counter appliance. Once you have made it a few times, you may choose to adjust the flavors to taste.

This recipe will serve ten people liberally.

2 pints of strawberries
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1-3/4 cups sugar
1/2 pound of rhubarb
1/4 cup champagne
1-1/2 cups of heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
1/4 cup water

First, chop the strawberries and macerate in the balsamic vinegar and 1/2 cup sugar for at least one hour. Drain juices from the berries and reserve all.

Chop the rhubarb into 1/4-inch slices and sauté in the champagne and 1/2 cup of sugar until it has become completely softened (about 15 minutes). Puree with an immersion blender or food processor and set aside.

Whip the heavy cream to a medium peak and chill in the refrigerator until needed. (If using a counter appliance, remove the whipped cream to a separate bowl to refrigerate and clean the bowl for further use.)

Separate the egg yolks and beat until pale (about 5 minutes).

Balsamic strawberries with sabayon

Bring 3/4 cup sugar plus the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Continue to boil until it has reached the soft ball stage (235 degrees Fahrenheit if using a candy thermometer) or about 4 minutes on a high boil.

On low speed, slowly add the sugar mixture into the egg yolks. Once added, increase the speed to medium low and beat until light pale (10 minutes). Reduce the speed to low and add 1/4 cup reserved strawberry-balsamic liquid. Remove from the appliance and fold in the rhubarb puree.

Add a quarter of the beaten whipped cream to the yolk-fruit mix and stir until combined. Dump in the rest of the whipped cream, switch to a large rubber scraper and fold in the remaining whipped cream. Refrigerate until ready for use.

To serve, distribute the macerated strawberries evenly between your serving dishes. Spoon a healthy portion of the sabayon on top, then garnish with a few more strawberries and a sprig of mint.

Probably the most assertive and controversial item, corn appears as overflowing piles of ears, husk and silk at the farmer’s market during the transition from spring to summer.

The ambiguity of corn as a starch and not a vegetable might present a conundrum to some, but is easily solved by focusing on its content and flavor incorporation to choice recipes. You will find corn in your recipes not only as a whole food but also its processed counterparts including high fructose syrup, powdered starch, alcohol or meal.

I say that corn is controversial because of the growing contempt of processed corn goods present in most of our packaged foods. It is a topic so pertinent, Michael Pollan dedicates an entire third of his opus, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, delineating it as an industrial commodity and the genetic manipulation therein (GMO’s).

I have not banned the use of processed corn products in my kitchen; instead, I buy organic ensuring that I am avoiding any products that have been engineered in a lab. I use high fructose corn syrup (better known as Karo) in my sorbets to give it a smoother texture, cornstarch is used to thicken sauces and stabilize pastry creams, corn based alcohols find their way into my diet some way, and lastly corn meal is used for breads, muffins and polenta.

As a whole food, I use corn in as many recipes as I can when it has reached its peak sweetness. Primarily, I like to throw the ears on the grill to slightly char the kernels before cutting them from the cob. The high heat from the fire not only imparts a smoky flavor and nice aesthetic but also caramelizes the natural sugars, enhancing the sweetness without overcooking.

I use the charred al dente kernels in salsas and salads, alone with some butter and salt or as an addition to potato dishes. In the recipe here, the corn is added to both potatoes and fresh vegetables furthering its ambiguity and enhancing the flavor profile.

Corn’s ambiguity is present in its sexuality and reproduction, too. The hermaphroditic corn stalk contains both male (tassels on the top) and female parts (the ears and silks). Even though it can self-pollinate, it does a better job in a field with a lot of other stalks much like a great big corn orgy.

What I find most interesting about corns’ reproduction is that each strand of silk that is protected by the husk translates to an individual kernel of corn. The silk strand is actually a tiny tube that, once the tip is contacted by a male gamete, ushers the cell to its base (some 6 inches) for the growth of the corn kernel.

I cannot pretend to be able to give you all the facts I wish I could here, but hope that this column’s personification of an American staple will spark new interests. Though ambiguousness, assertion and controversy are words not commonly associated with food, they are very descriptive for corn’s infiltration of our diets.

Is corn the Lady Gaga of our tables? Working its way into all the crevices of our daily routines? Not being able to turn around without seeing the decked out persona? Perhaps, but I’m certain that preparation, study and consumption are probably the simplest ways to find out.

bobby’s recipe

Summer vegetable succotash

I am truly inspired by this dish because of the full variety of food types present in what, at first glance, would appear to be a vegetable specific side dish. The inclusion of edamame instead of the traditional lima bean, pack the dish with protein while the corn and potato distribute your meal’s starch allowance.

I like to serve this dish as a side with southwestern-style dry rubbed pork chops or a spicy grilled chicken dish but it is also perfectly suitable to stand alone as a main for a vegetarian or vegan meal once the pancetta is omitted.

5 red potatoes
2 tablespoons of olive oil
3/4-inch slice of pancetta
Three small zucchinis
Kernels from 3 ears of corn
14 ounces thawed, shelled edamame
5 sprigs of thyme
1/2 cup finely diced red onion

Cut the potatoes into one-inch cubes and boil for 10 minutes. Allow to cool. Sauté the potatoes in the olive oil over high heat, turning occasionally, until browned. Set aside.

In a 12-inch skillet, sauté the pancetta, cubed to 1/4 inch, until browned. Remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon, reserving the grease, and set aside.

Slice the zucchinis in half-length, then slice into 1/2-inch thick half-rounds (width wise). In the pancetta grease, sauté the corn kernels and the zucchini over a high heat until just browned (about 7 minutes). Add in the thawed, shelled edamame and the reserved potatoes to the pan. Stir gently and cook until all the contents have been warmed then remove from the heat.

Stir in the thyme leaves and diced red onion. Serve immediately and garnish (sparingly) with the pancetta.

For an added flair, hollow a large heirloom tomato and make a slice down one side. Spoon the succotash into the tomato cup and allow to overflow from the slit.

When shopping, look for veal from calves that were mother-milk fed and were free-range raised.

Guilt! I know I carry it along with me about a great many instances and occurrences: things I have done, things I have not done, and things I have failed to do. I don’t know if it is my Catholic upbringing or just a sense of self-masochism, but guilt follows me perpetually.

In the realm of food, some allow guilt to guide them to a vegetarian, pescetarian or a vegan diet so that they do not participate in what they feel to be cruel treatment of animals. Personally, I do not allow the contribution of food-based guilt to inhibit my guilty food pleasures.

I do not argue that animals should live the most comfortable life possible within reason. Instead, certain food products should be researched before turning a blind eye. There are specific instances, aside from the argument of antibiotics, where buying food products of more humanely raised animals not only contribute to their overall wellness, but to ours, too.

Cows raised on a natural diet of grass (instead of the industry standard of corn and animal meal) live a less bloated life and give us better tasting meat. Free-range chicken eggs not only taste better but also have an abundance of nutrients not found in ones produced, again, on a corn diet.

Free-range chicken eggs not only taste better but also have an abundance of nutrients.

Veal, the meat of baby calves (mostly male) that traditionally had been kept from excess movement, prevent the toughening of the meat. There have been many measures decreasing full restraint and increasing quality of life (for as little time as that may be). When shopping, look for calves that give us veal that have been mother-milk fed and were raised free range, allowed to roam freely for their limited life span, fed also on grass and grains, without antibiotics and delicious once breaded and baked.

Less common but arguably more detested is foie gras. The buttery-smooth and delicious engorged liver of a force-fed French goose. The qualities of the liver are imparted to the organ by feeding the goose enough grains that the liver does not have enough time to process all the contents to waste and, instead, deposits the excess fats to the liver.

Of course there are options other than a “gavage”-ed goose if you would like to enjoy the creamy texture of foie gras: some (non-French) productions time the slaughter of the goose so that it synchs with the natural overeating of the bird just before migration time. Another option is to infuse chicken livers with butter and heavy cream that is turned into a mousse-like pâté that I call a faux gras (recipe included). Although it will never match true foie gras, it just might make you a better foodie who can live guilt-free. bobby’s recipe

bobby’s recipe

Faux gras

This recipe is great as a starter for parties and does not have a strong liver flavor to ease your less adventurous guests into the realms of pâté or foie gras.

4 cups water
1 lb. chicken livers
1/4 brick of soft tofu
1/2 cup brandy
1 cup diced shallots
2 tablespoons butter
2 minced garlic cloves
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 3/4 sticks butter
melted ghee or clarified butter

Do ahead: drain and trim the chicken livers then roughly chop. Cube the tofu, combine with the livers and let soak in the brandy for at least one hour then drain before use.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and place the rack in the middle. Bring the water to a simmer.

Over a moderately low heat, sauté the shallots in the butter until translucent (10 minutes or less). Stir in the garlic cloves and the heavy cream. Increase the heat to medium high and sauté until the cream has reduced and the shallots have absorbed most of the liquid (about 15 minutes). Remove from heat and stir in the sticks of butter, return to heat and stir until the butter is melted and combined.

Combine the onion mixture with the liver and tofu and homogenize using an immersion or counter blender. Pass the mixture through a fine mesh sieve and set aside.

Space four 8-ounce ramekins in a roasting pan or other, shallow, oven proof dish. Pour the liver mixture evenly between the ramekins; cover each with foil, then fill the bottom of the pan 1/3 full with simmering water. Bake until the pâté is just set (about 30 minutes) and chill, covered, for at least three hours.

Once the pâté is cold, seal the ramekins by pouring barely melted ghee (or clarified butter) over the tops so that it covers the pate and forms a seal once chilled. An alternative method (which will keep for less time) is to cover the tops with a gelée that has been prepared with fresh chopped parsley.

Allow the pâté to come up to room temperature (about 30 minutes) and serve with toast points, some softened Gorgonzola cheese, or whatever else suits your fancy. I also like to prepare a roasted tomato confit but will leave you to conjure that recipe.

Assortment of heirloom tomatoes

Whether you choose to plant in early March or have been anticipating their arrival in the markets, heirloom tomatoes are beginning to peek their misshapen, bulbous little heads out at us all over town. Almost grotesque in their beauty of multicolored stripes, smoky purple hues and vibrant greens and yellows, these amazing fruits’ quantity will only multiply as the summer ensues, much like the asexual reproduction of adding water to a gremlin. But unlike the gremlin, the addition of bright light (and the beautiful weather we have been having) will only increase the prosperity of these adorable little monsters.

Heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables traditionally refer to specific genetically evolved characteristics within the family that distinguish them from their cousins, such as specific disease resistance, flavor, color and shape. Aside from the most commonly sold tomatoes are heirloom varieties of eggplant, squashes and even radishes or beets to name a few. As the heirloom’s popularity has increased, the criteria for classification has become inversely proportional, allowing varieties whose phenotype might suggest an heirloom quality to be so called, while the genotype begs to differ.

But who cares really, except for the most orthodox of fruit and vegetable enthusiasts. If it looks cool and tastes good, nobody’s getting hurt and nobody is the wiser.

My focus is on heirloom tomatoes because they are the first to appear, are the most diverse and continually present throughout the season. When ripe, the tomatoes have subtle flavor differences from each other and an apparent sweetness that is lacking in the more traditional Roma or Vine Ripe sold throughout the year.

The best way to find out the difference is to simply taste them yourself, raw with a sprinkle of salt to cut the acidity. You will soon be an expert at differentiating between the Cherokee Purple, Yellow Brandywine, Green Zebra or Moskvich varieties.

Heirlooms are also cultivated as cherry-sized tomatoes. Trader Joe’s has a great variety pack right now sold for $3 a pint that I use for the included recipe. The variety pack is nice because it distributes a far greater spectrum of color and more flavors than using slices of the larger varieties and often is less expensive per pound.

These aesthetic beauties will dress up any of the traditional dishes you would have otherwise used raw red tomatoes for, such as a Caprese or House salad, but why not go further into more elaborate preparations that will show off both the beauty of the ingredients and the inventiveness of the cook.

Heirloom tomato tart

One such idea is using the basic flavor profile of a Caprese salad and making it into an heirloom tomato tart with pesto and mozzarella. Use a pre-bought nine-inch pie shell and bake as directed after cracking black pepper on the bottom. Then take 3/4 pound thinly sliced mozzarella, 1/2 cup pesto and 2 pounds sliced mixed heirloom tomatoes (that have been separated into thirds) and layer evenly to build the tart. It can be eaten at room temperature. You could even pour an egg and cream mix over the tart and bake it as a quiche.

Other ideas include pureeing the tomatoes and adding them to a Bloody Mary mix or hollowing the tomato into a cup and baking it filled with a summer vegetable succotash.

Dressing yourself and your dishes up in summer colors provides a sense of levity, confidence and charisma. Being bold is what nature intended! bobby’s recipe

bobby’s recipe

Heirloom tomato tarte tatin

Usually made with stone fruits, a tarte tartin is a traditional French dessert that would be the equivalent of a caramelized upside down tart.

Since stone fruits will not be available until the fall, and I love a tarte tatin, I have developed this recipe using the traditional technique of caramelizing fruit with sugar and butter, but substitute heirloom tomatoes as the star ingredient.

I had really bad luck using ceramic ramekins while testing this recipe. Instead, I swapped to a 6 ounce Pyrex soufflé cup that browned evenly, allowing me to see that the bottom was not burning and gave a nice, domed dimension to the dessert.

2 pints heirloom cherry tomatoes
3 tablespoons butter
3 teaspoons granulated sugar
Pastry dough – enough for six 4-inch circles

Heirloom tomato tarte tatin

Peirce the skin of the cherry tomatoes with a paring knife. Squeeze the tomatoes with your fingers over the sink to get rid of the seeds.

Butter six 6-ounce soufflé cups with 1/2 tablespoon butter each and sprinkle the bottom with a generous 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar.

Divide the seeded tomatoes evenly between the soufflé cups, place in a baking pan, loosely cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.

Remove the foil and press down on the tomatoes with the bottom of a glass or spoon to mold them into the cup. Bake uncovered for an additional hour.

Meanwhile, roll out enough pastry dough 1/8 inch thick and make six 4-inch circles. Poke the circles with a fork and refrigerate.

Remove the soufflé cups from the oven and place the pastry rounds gently on top (they should overlap). Using a butter knife, tuck the sides of the dough down around the baked tomatoes.

Increase the temperature to 425 degrees and bake for 15 minutes until the pastry is golden.

Sit for 10 minutes before running a knife around the edge and unmolding onto a plate. Serve warm with fresh made whipped cream and half a cherry tomato as a garnish.