Vagabond: Kitchen of the World

Fall is upon us; no more sharing the beaches with summer tourists and for a brief moment we get our highways back. It also means restaurants have to work twice as hard to get customers in the door.

With prix-fixe menus starting at $20 per couple in some local eateries, this is a perfect time of year for trying a restaurant that you have had your eye on. So, with that in mind start checking your to-eat list and consider the following suggestions for a fun and inexpensive night on the town.

Try a quick Google search of the restaurant by name as it may pull up recent articles that describe seasonal specials and other recommendations. Next, go to the actual restaurant Web site and check for daily or weekly events and meal deals.

Don’t just rely on Yelp, as there are plenty of other independent sources to tap. I personally prefer Opentable.com for restaurant reviews and dining out points as they are always good for planning future nights out. I trust Opentable.com and have talked to their management and public relations team on many occasions and I have always found them to have integrity and to be very honest.

One of my little “fall finds” is a restaurant that describes its concept as a “Travel journal put into a restaurant.” Vagabond: Kitchen of the World restaurant embodies world travel and its pleasures and you don’t need to go further than the community of South Park for the experience.

Vagabond brings you the flavors of France, Vietnam, Morocco and the Caribbean with a unique and eclectic menu. Long hailed as one of the more romantic restaurants in the county and recipient of the Silver Fork Award from San Diego Home & Garden and named San Diego Magazine’s Best Restaurant 2008, Vagabond is, truly, the world on a plate. The restaurant has introduced a prix-fixe menu every Wednesday night for $49 per couple. This consists of a shared appetizer, selected entrées and a shared dessert. It is worth noting that the entrées change weekly, allowing you the excuse to visit more often.

The Vagabond’s wine list is extensive and offers wines from seven countries starting at $6 per glass. Daily happy hour is 4-6:30 p.m. with $2 off wine, beer and well drinks, excluding the signature cocktails. Happy hour also offers selected food items like Korean Style Pork Ribs for $6, the famous Crispy Calamari for $5 and many more options for you to discover and enjoy.

The new executive chef is Tom Connolly, 34, the former chef of Wood Tavern in Oakland, Calif. Connolly has an extensive background in seafood, classical French and Pacific Rim cuisine and will be introducing the new fall menu by the end of October. Chef Connolly will certainly be one of the chefs to watch in San Diego.

If you have not been to Vagabond it is time to put your travelling shoes on and make your way there; and guess what – you won’t even need your passport.

REVIEW
Vagabond: Kitchen of the World
2310 30th St., San Diego, CA 92104
Tel: 619-255-1035
vagabondkitchen.com

Mike Spradley is a regular contributor to San Diego LGBT Weekly’s The Restaurant Insider, by Christopher J. Hile.

insider scoop

Halloween isn’t much of a restaurant holiday, but that doesn’t mean it is not a food holiday. Now I’m not talking about the mounds of Snickers, candy corn, and Skittles that people devour this time of year. I’m talking about that big round orange thing you didn’t have time to carve triangular holes into. Forget about pumpkin pie – or at least wait until Turkey Day to make yours; here’s a completely fresh use for that big orange thing I think you’ll find absolutely irresistible:

Pumpkin cheesecake crumble squares

Crust:

1 cup all purpose flour

3/4 cup (packed) golden brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, diced

1 cup pecan halves (about 4 ounces)

3/4 cup old-fashioned oats

Filling:

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, room temperature

3/4 cup pure pumpkin

1/2 cup sugar

1 large egg

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

Topping:

1 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

For crust:

Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously butter 9x9x2-inch metal baking pan. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Using on/off turns, blend first 4 ingredients in processor until coarse meal forms. Add pecans; using on/off turns, process until nuts are chopped. Add oats; process using on/off turns until mixture is moistened but not clumping. Press 3 1/2 cups crumbs onto bottom of prepared square pan (do not clean processor). Transfer remaining crumbs to lined baking sheet. Bake crumbs on sheet until golden, stirring once, about 12 minutes. Cool crumbs. Bake crust until golden, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven while preparing filling. Maintain oven temperature.

For filling:

Blend all ingredients in same processor until smooth. Spread filling over warm crust; bake until set, dry in center, and beginning to rise at edges, about 20 minutes. Maintain oven temperature.

For topping:

Mix all ingredients in small bowl. Spread evenly over hot filling. Bake until topping sets and bubbles at edges, about 5 minutes. Cool completely in pan on rack. Sprinkle crumbs over topping; gently press into topping. Cover; chill until cold, about 2 hours. Do ahead. Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. Cut into squares.

Breakfast and lunch usually signal the beginning of a lazy weekend with a growling stomach and far too many choices on where to eat. Sometimes it’s just too early to think about who’s got your morning fancy.

The pancakes maybe great at one place but their omelets can be under par; finding clever morning fare is simply hard. If you plan to meet friends for that oh-so-American adventure of identifying the best place to eat pancakes, you may find yourself discussing lunch before you all agree.

Sitting on the patio in the recently remodeled Fig Tree Café in Hillcrest I studied the new décor. It is very unique. With stone walls, glass lanterns, modern bench seating with rope and bare light blubs hanging from the ceiling, it sounds a bit like Ringling Brothers. Sadly, the sound is more cacophony than symphony.

On a recent morning, as the summer sun raised its sleepy head I was treated to my favorite breakfast delights. With me was Johan Engman, creator of the Fig Tree Café Pacific Beach and co-owner of the new Fig Tree Café Hillcrest between Fifth and Fourth on University Avenue.

That sunny Sunday morning found yours truly sitting outside with Engman, as he shared some of his life story and why he created the Fig Tree Café. Engman is one of the more interesting 30-year-olds I have met in the restaurant business. Not only do people swoon when he walks into the room on sheer looks, but he is notably eloquent and brims with the kinds of stories only a world traveler can tell.

When Engman asked what I would like to try, I took the plunge headlong: “Surprise me.” Famous last words as plate after plate arrived of French toast, pancakes, coffee cake, omelets and scrambles. I began to feel like Violet from the 1971 movie Willie Wonka and Chocolate Factory as she turned into a giant blueberry.

The first dish that arrived was the marinated brioche French toast. It was perfect. Not too wet or dry and with an orange zest syrup that burst in your mouth with flavor. I must say this dish was very, very good and a bargain at $7.95. If you are big eater you may wish to consider ordering a side of bacon or eggs to round out the lone French toast.

The Monterey Scramble was also an unexpected treat. It was served with three eggs, Ortega chilies, Monterey cheese, black beans, Mexican rice, corn tortillas and salsa. It may sound spicy but it was very mild. For those of you who usually like things on the spicy side you may be confused by the menu description and you may wish to pass on this dish or ask your server if they can spice it up to your taste. Great value at $9.75 and very filling.

The caffeine sampler is one of the more clever things on the menu as you are served three 4 ounce lattes, mochas or Mexican mochas for $6.25. I was surprised that no other cafes in the city had come up with same idea.

The House Made Buttermilk Pecan Coffee Cake is delicious served steaming hot with fresh berries for only $3.95. Add the Fig Tree Café’s own certified organic coffee or tea and your damage is just $7.

The lunch menu offers something for everyone. I enjoyed the Roasted Chicken Club with bacon, avocado, tomatoes, mixed greens and mayo. The sandwich is large enough to split or will satisfy the big eater. It has a wholesome California look and taste if you minus the bacon. No matter what you decide it’s a great deal for $9.25.

Overall for breakfast and lunch the Fig Tree Café is great, although I would encourage them to add some spice and fire to their breakfast menu.

I also wish to mention the staff who are very friendly and quick on their feet. I have no complaints with any of my three visits. Make sure to look at the very large daily special blackboard on the west wall and if you enjoy your experience at the Fig Tree Café, you may wish to sign up for their newsletter which can include special-offer coupons.

RESTAURANT REVIEW
Fig Tree Café
416 University Ave.
San Diego, CA 92103
619-298-2010
figtreecafeHillcrest.com

The style of The Strip Club is a great alternative to the usual steakhouse.

Restaurant concepts take a lot of time to create. The elements of the idea, the food, service, décor, location, price point, logo design and marketing are just a few simple aspects that restaurants need to take into account when creating. And these days the competition is fierce.

Over the course of my career I have concepted restaurants myself and have eaten in hundreds all over the world. So when I see something unique and different that succeeds, it is thrilling. It is very difficult to break diners out of the box sometimes but we have a restaurant group here in San Diego that broke the mold.

Hailing from the very successful Cohn Restaurant Group, The Strip Club, with locations in the Gaslamp and La Jolla, has taken the idea of a steak house to a whole new level. This 40s supper club “grill your own” concept is not only fun and social, but the food is pretty good too.

The style of The Strip Club is a great alternative to the stuffy, expensive steak house. Large red and black vinyl banquettes, low lighting suspended from the ceiling and a bustling bar serving up classic martinis all together take you into an older era with a modern twist. The brick walls are covered with provocative and artistic sketches which might just be another reason as to why both of these restaurants have a 21 and up age restriction.

The stars of the dining room however, are the large grills that are in the center. Certified with commercial hoods, you will feel like you are your own five star chef. These days interactive cooking has taken over with open kitchens; this takes it to a whole new level.

When you first enter you aren’t greeted with the typical question “how many in your party?” but rather “have you dined with us before?” I think this is smart; you need an open mind when you come. The menu is filled with heart stopping goodies. Take one night and forget that cholesterol, fat and grease aren’t good for you and go full throttle.

The appetizers are simple and basic. Sweet Chili Calamari ($9.95) offers crispy deep fried rings that have a bit of heat to them. A Vegas Shrimp Cocktail ($9.95) comes to your table with six massive size jumbo shrimp predictably clinging to the edge of a cocktail sauce filled martini glass. I’m not a huge fan of onion rings, but here the Beer Battered Onion Rings ($5.95) will bring out the sinner in you.

A huge added value is that all entrees come with a family style salad dressed in their house vinaigrette. 80s style wooden bowls are filled with crisp iceberg lettuce, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, boxed croutons and sliced red and green peppers. There is nothing fancy about this; in fact it is very homemade. The sides are as well with a version of a Loaded Potato ($7.95), Truffled Mac and Cheese ($7.95) and of course Creamed Spinach ($5.95)

Being that the steaks are the show here, their list does not disappoint with a large selection of well chosen cuts. Choices range from a 12 ounce New York Strip ($19.95), an 8 ounce Filet Mignon ($23.95) or a 20 ounce Porterhouse ($21.95) to name just a few. You cannot beat the steak prices. When you order your steaks, be warned that they come to your table raw and wrapped in plastic wrap. Now trust me, this is where the fun begins.

Grab the steak that’s yours, head to the grill, and choose from an array of seasonings and spices. Everything from roasted garlic, to chili powder, to the unique Strip Club blend is there for you to use as you see fit. The grills are large and go around on all four sides so your whole table can head up at once. Bring your cocktail too; this is a social event as if you were in your own backyard. This is also a great way to meet other people. Every time I have been I always seem to meet my neighbor on the next table.

Even if you have never cooked on a grill before, don’t fear. There are directions on the side of each one explaining timing and temperature scales. And there will be many people there that are self proclaimed “experts.”

If you are looking for something different to do with your friends on a Friday night, this is definitely the way to go. There is just something to be said about the fun of standing around a commercial grill in a restaurant, cooking your own meat with a chilled martini in hand while talking with your friends and strangers. The one drawback? If your steak comes back to your table overcooked, you have no one to blame but yourself.

RESTAURANT REVIEWS
Gaslamp Strip Club
340 Fifth Ave.
San Diego, CA 92101
619-231-3140

La Jolla Strip Club
4282 Esplanade Court
San Diego, CA 92122
858-450-1400

Bolt’s Build-Your-Own-Platter

When you think of American cuisine it is impossible not to think of barbecue. However barbecue is one of the most misunderstood cuisines we consume. Since I know what I like but do not know a lot about barbecue I asked Kathleen and Kelly Macintosh, certified master judges from Kansas City Barbecue Society, to join me for this review. We started the review by examining the meat served. The smoke rings and texture of the beef brisket were perfect – “it passed the pull test.” The chicken and spare ribs were also deemed perfect for taste and texture.

Now that we have that out of the way let’s talk about the ambiance and food. This family style restaurant is beautiful with its wood beams and stone cement floor. You may choose from the long family style picnic tables, booths or the many four top tables in the middle of the dining room. One of the features I also enjoyed is the sink for hand washing in the middle of the restaurant. A large wood deck was recently added to the building that is great for people watching or soaking up a few rays.

I started with the meat platter for two with two sides. You may choose from several kinds of meat and I chose the brisket and chicken together with baked beans and coleslaw – a steal for $20.99. I was pleasantly surprised the meat was not swimming in the barbecue sauce. I personally detest food that is hidden under gallons of sauce; it makes me think the chef is trying to hide something.

The finely cut coleslaw was very enjoyable with a vinegar bite at the end. The baked beans had a faint hickory taste that is perfect for beer lovers.

The next item I was served was the pulled pork sandwich with sweet potato fries. I hated it so much I left the plate clean and ordered it again the next day. The sandwich was served on a “soft bread” buttermilk brioche roll with perfectly prepared pulled pork. This is a true Southern style sandwich for under ten dollars, that once tasted will have you craving it for days and weeks after.

Jalapeño burger with fries

Brazen BBQ also features a full bar with flat screen monitors so you can enjoy your favorite sporting events. I will also add the bartenders are friendly and mix perfect drinks – I had several! If you are dining alone or with friends please feel free to sit in the bar area – you can bypass the front cashier. This is a great option if you are looking for great conversation with your neighbors.

I give high marks to John Bracamonte of Escondido and Brad Thomas of Philadelphia for creating delicious food in a fun and friendly atmosphere. Be sure to look at the hundreds of awards they have received for their barbecue including rookies of the year 2009 and grand champions.

Brazen BBQ, is serving a limited menu for the first month of operation. I am truly disappointed I was unable to sample the banana pudding and other culinary barbecue gems on the menu. However this only means I get to go back and put my pig snout on to enjoy the delicious food with family and friends.

Things to consider: The restaurant is closed on Tuesdays and good barbecue takes time to prepare. If you arrive late in the day you may be disappointed they are out of ribs or brisket. In my opinion selling out of an item is a good thing; it assures you the food is scrumptious and fresh.

RESTAURANT REVIEW
Brazen BBQ Hillcrest
441 Washington Street
San Diego, CA 92103
619-816-1990
brazenbbq.com

Lamb Bolognese

National chain restaurants are spread throughout the country. You have your low-end family oriented, mid-range casual eateries and high-end chains offering ethnic fare. Although a lot of us will never want to admit we have dined in them, most of us have.

Of course, San Diego is not without its fair share. Most recently I discovered a chain that I was unaware existed, and what a pleasant surprise it was. Piatti Ristorante & Bar is a classic Italian trattoria that has been cloned with nine locations spread throughout the central states and West Coast. They define themselves as a collection of restaurants as opposed to a chain, and I must agree.

Housed in a white Cape Cod style house in La Jolla’s beach village, Piatti’s offers great fare at reasonable prices. La Jolla is certainly not known for its less expensive restaurants and that’s one reason I really want to share this little gem.

As you walk into this little house, you are greeted with their signature open kitchen and large white bar. Rustic and quaint, the terracotta floor brings you back to a little town in Northern Italy. Big solid wood chairs are reminiscent of a farm house and are lined around bistro-style tables. The exquisite patio was built around a solid oak tree that must have been there for centuries and really offers a unique backdrop.

The menu is simple with no fuss. Classic Northern Italian dishes are offered and as in any Italian restaurant, it is always great to start with something from the Antipasto section. Bruschetta ($7.95) is one of my favorite items here. The thick toasted ciabatta bread is smothered with a generous helping of tomatoes, garlic and basil. If fried calamari is your thing, don’t miss it here. The Fritto Misto ($12.95) comes with not only crunchy calamari, but shrimp and vegetables are also served.

The classic theme continues with the salads. I think I have tried all of them on the menu and two favorites definitely have emerged. The D’Indivia Rucola ($10.95) has fresh endive and arugula tossed with marinated beets. The lemon vinaigrette keeps it just light and refreshing. Of course the Caprese ($11.50) should be one of the best on the menu, and during my last visit it was prepared with the most amazing heirloom tomatoes. Colors of green, red and orange, mixed with a creamy burrata was summertime on a plate.

Pastas can always be hit or miss in restaurants like this. Although, most that I have had here were decent, I was disappointed in the use of dry pasta. The Linguine al Salmone ($19.95) was a departure for me, but a rewarding one. Rich kalamata olives and tiny capers were tossed in a light olive oil with spinach and onions. To my surprise the chunks of salmon were cooked to perfection and the light sauce really made this dish delicious.

Lasagna ($16.50), of course, is always a staple and this version is one that does not disappoint. Rich meat ragu and layers of mozzarella swim in a sweet tomato sauce. The Penne al Brassato D’Agnello ($17.95) with the use of lamb makes this an interesting play on Bolognese. A bit gamey for my tastes, it didn’t quite hit the mark.

If you aren’t counting calories, the Orecchiette ($16.95) is the way to go. A creamy and heavy gorgonzola sauce covers sautéed chicken breasts. The ear shaped pasta is the perfect size match for the sundried tomatoes and asparagus.

If your craving for pasta isn’t that strong the night you go, pick out a pizza or entrée. The Veal Piccatta ($22.95) is a true Italian dish, with thinly pounded veal medallions that are breaded and served with a tangy sauce of lemon, capers and butter.

As with most chain establishments, the wine list is a set corporate list. This list seems to be no exception. Several wines by the glass are offered, but all the standards are there. You can find a favorite, but don’t expect to find anything interesting.

With the friendly and comfortable style of the décor and menu, the service match’s the concept. You can see the family run connection in this location as the servers are smiling and really seem to enjoy their job. Each time I have received efficient and thoughtful service by professionals.

If you are a diehard snob against anything that is a chain, get over it here. Piatti’s really breaks the mold and never once have I not felt the true love that is put into this restaurant. One always thought that a restaurant with this price point and food quality could not exist in the tough market of La Jolla, but Piatti’s proves they can, among many other things.

RESTAURANT REVIEW
Piatti Ristorante & Bar
2182 Avenida De La Playa
La Jolla, CA 92037
858-454-1589
piatti.com/loca9.html

RESTAURANT REVIEW: Recently Chef Rene Herbeck invited me and a friend to have dinner with him at the new Au Revoir French Bistro, the former home of La Vache.

This chic bistro in the heart of Hillcrest reminds me of my favorite bistros and restaurants in Paris near the Pompidou in the city center or the famous Châtelet in the ninth arrondissement, with inviting French bistro décor, crystal chandeliers and wooden café chairs. It’s a mix of this and that, to be honest, but very pleasing to the eye.

I am very biased when it comes to Chef Herbeck who is one of my favorite chefs outside of Paris. I trust his taste and talent and allowed him to choose the menu for us.

Chef started us with fried curry calamari in a stewed tomato sauce with garlic and olives. It reminded me of a chutney sauce, just slightly different, served with a delightful red wine, “Les Violettes” Côtes du Rhône available by the glass or bottle. The sauce danced perfectly on the palette.

Next he served a cheese board with brie and a truffle oil mascarpone in between, with apricots, olive bread, figs and raisins. Once again perfect to the palette.

The entrée was a pleasant surprise; I was served a filet mignon medium rare, thinly sliced with a morels port sauce, sautéed green beans and pommes frites (“French fries”). Heaven on earth.

My dinner companion was served Noix de Saint-Jacques flambées sur lit de Ratatouille, Pommes Rattes and sauce au Pastis. In English, seared sea scallops on a bed of ratatouille; three very large scallops in a cast iron skillet served flambéed. A very dramatic and delicious presentation.

The portions were enormous, yet we still found room to consume caramel flan for $5.25, which is a steal because most restaurants typically charge $8 or $9.

My experience that evening was just magic in more ways than one; the French never cease to amaze me when it comes to their cuisine

If you would like to make your dining experience truly special sit at the wine bar and ask for the chef to come and speak with you, tell him what you fancy, likes and dislikes and let him create for you. I guarantee your experience will be wonderful.

The bistro also offers a happy hour from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday – Thursday that includes 30 percent off all wines by the glass and all lunch menu items. A varied weekend brunch menu is also a nice choice with outside café tables for soaking up a few rays or people watching.

Au Revoir has ample off-street and on-street parking. I suggest a walk around the many fine shops after dinner or better yet try Hillcrest Cinema for the latest independent films.

Au Revoir French Bistro
420 Robinson Ave.
San Diego, CA 92103
619-268-2400
aurevoirbistro.com

Everybody loves pizza.

RESTAURANT REVIEWS: I love when food becomes a controversy and a debate. People all over become attached to what they think is the best and where the best is made. There is probably only one culinary dish around our different regions, even throughout the world, that brings such heated arguments. From its origin, to its style and cooking method, the versions can just be endless and vastly different.

Pizza is a simple culinary treat that people personalize and are adamantly loyal to where they get it, what city does it the best and what is the best way to eat it. It actually is amazing when you think about it. No matter where it comes from and whose making it, it all starts with only three key ingredients: Dough, tomato sauce and cheese.

Even the flavor changes dramatically by how it is cooked. Some say that only a clay brick oven is the way to go. While others say commercial convention ovens cook it the best. Whichever way you prefer, you will find a loyal fan club.

Considering my upbringing in the pizza capital on the East Coast, I consider myself to be a pretty good judge. I’m sure I will receive some backlash on this, but I will make the bold statement that San Diego is not known for pizza. However, there are two places that we are fortunate to have in town that do it right and in true fashion, they both do it differently.

Pizzeria Bruno Napoletano, located on Park Boulevard at the edge of Hillcrest, offers us a very authentic Italian version. Recipes and techniques are straight from the region of Naples, Italy, which is the worldwide city considered to have the best. Even the domed wood burning brick oven was crafted in Naples and brought over.

Every pizza on the menu is labeled in Italian and names reflect the ingredients. With so many good ones on the menu it was hard to pick just a few to write about, but alas I chose my favorites. The Salsicce ($15) is what jumped off the menu for me. Fennel sausage and broccoli rabe top the cheese and offer that bitter and sweet flavor I love so much. The Salami ($15) comes together with sharp reggiano cheese, soppressata and gaeta olives. The spice from the soppressata blend with the salty reggiano and you finish with the richness of the olives.

For those looking for the simpler versions, try the Bufalini ($17). There is no tomato sauce on this pizza but thick slices of vine ripe tomatoes smothered with olive oil, fresh buffalo mozzarella and big basil leaves. If you have a favorite, as many people do, there is a wide list of “extra’s” to add or create your own. Thankfully there is no pineapple available.

On the other side of the spectrum we have Basic in the East Village. Hailing from my home town of New Haven, Conn., this one is an exact replica. In an old converted warehouse with a large opening garage door, here the pizza is dished out more causally. The menu is a “create your own”. You start with a choice of your pie base, red or white. From there your sizes range from small ($9-$10) to large ($14-$16).

Cooked in a traditional pizza oven, the crust is thin and crispy. The toppings are all a la carte and there is a long list. Watch what you are adding, the pizza can get expensive rather quickly. But whatever version you want, they will create it. This is the place to go and get your East Coast fix: garlic and clam pizza. The red sauce is a secret recipe that is both sweet and acidic. There has been a rumor around for years that the recipe for the secret sauce was stolen by a disgruntled employee from another very famous New Haven pizza haunt, Sally’s. As I said before, pizza is big business and people get very serious about it. Whatever the case may be, it works for them.

Each pizza pie is served on large sheet tray’s with paper plates making this the stand around the bar and eat type place. Basic is definitely more lively as you get into the evening with club music blaring and young twenty and thirty something’s floating all around. You do have a choice however; sit on the non-bar side if you want to have that sit-down pizza experience.

From the Italian styles, to Chicago’s deep dish, and East Coast’s thin crust, every type has a personality and tells a story. The pizza wars will continue I believe, with expressive debates happening all over the world. Whatever the case, I get excited when people are passionate about food; it makes my job a lot more fun.

Pizzeria Bruno Napoletano
4207 Park Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92103
619-260-1311

Basic
410 10th Ave.
San Diego, CA 92101
619-531-8869

RESTAURANT REVIEW: I have always been a fan of ethnic restaurants of all kinds. Whether it is Indian, Thai, Japanese, I am fascinated by the cuisine. Here in San Diego, we do have our fair share scattered around our neighborhoods and some are so authentic you feel you have been transported into that country.

In the interesting times we are living in with our shaky economy, most restaurants have recognized the need to be simpler with menus and price points. The genre of sushi has been one of the hardest hit and even harder to change. Fish is caught and flown all over the world for the cuisine and prices have not dropped but in fact have gotten higher.

So when I see a sushi restaurant doing it right, I must applaud them. Azuki Sushi is a place that has bent the rules and gone with the ups and downs of the economic flow in an interesting manner. Some of your favorite classics are switched up using different ingredients. Through all this, a new manner of sushi has been defined.

Nestled on Fifth Avenue in Bankers Hill, Azuki Sushi is the place to go. There has always been a huge debate in town as to who offers the best and at the right price. After weeks of eating my way through countless sushi restaurants in town, my vote is for Azuki.

This cute little restaurant has a deceiving look to it. As you walk through the incredible large and very cool metal door you enter into a classic sushi bar with several chefs working away furiously. A few tables are scattered on the wall, leaving you to think that the place can only seat 20 people. But the surprise gem to this place is the back patio. It is such a great space surrounded with wood plank walls, it reminds me of a little spot in New York.

The menu is classically laid out in Japanese style. Sections are offered in sushi and sashimi, tempura, classic rolls to name just a few. Signature bites are a unique way to start your evening. The Spicy Albacore Tataki ($12) is a beautifully seared albacore with garlic chips and ponzu. The Tofu Three Ways ($8) is served chilled with black sesame, moromi miso and nikiri sweet soy sauce.

This is the place for sashimi and sushi and you have your choice in both styles. The list is extraordinary and the best in the city. The Hon Maguro (Blue Fin Tuna) ($15) just melts in your mouth. One of the best pieces of fish I have ever tasted. Branch out and try the Kanpachi (amberjack) ($16) or the Aji ($16) (Spanish mackerel). The list goes on and on with the fresh fish.

The specialty rolls are what make Azuki the leader in town. Creatively put together, they are the true stand out on the menu. The Sunshine Roll ($15) is rolled with a rock shrimp mix, hamachi, and tempura green onion. It is then topped with salmon, avocado and citrus ponzu which just brings an outrageous explosion of flavor.

The Vertigo ($12) of hamachi, crab, micro shiso, avocado, gobo, is all wrapped in cucumber and dressed with citrus ponzu. The avocado really puts an interesting spin and adds such a nice creaminess. If you want to be over the top, try the R U Kidding Me? ($17). Diver scallops, crab, tempura asparagus are all rolled together and then topped with seared tuna and white truffle oil. It is then served around mixed greens in ponzu, crowned with flash fried chives. This is not for the faint of heart.

Although they are all good and different, my favorite must be the Bonsai ($12). Shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, asparagus with white truffle and sweet poki sauce, is garnished with crunchy lotus roots and sweet potato. I’m not one that really likes anything sweet, but the white truffle and sweet poki sauce really is a marriage made in heaven.

I often get asked what the best drink of choice is to have with sushi. The debate goes on and on about sake, wine or beer. If you have never had sake before this is a good place to experiment. All the selections come with a flavor profile description which I think is very helpful when ordering. Even their wine list is decent with light and fruity wines to choose as a bottle or glass.

As the battle continues for the best sushi in town, I see Azuki arising as the main contender. Sushi is one of the hardest items to serve in a restaurant as nothing is worse than stale fish. Azuki has proven that you can still get the freshest fish from all over the world and offer it to us in a valuable way.

Azuki Sushi
2321 Fifth Ave.
San Diego, CA 92101
619-238-4760
azukisushi.com

Shrimp stuffed with crab and lobster

RESTAURANT REVIEW: Restaurant families these days are something of the past. In many culture’s it was a tradition to pass the business down from generation to generation. Some restaurants I know of in the country have been operating with the same family for over 50 years. Sadly, you just don’t see that much anymore.

In San Diego, we are lucky to have one of those families still doing what has been done decades before. Their family name is as big as their many restaurants and most of them have been cooking for us for over 25 years.

The Busalacchi’s have become a household name in San Diego and when you hear the name you immediately think of the restaurant empire that started with Joe and Lisa. These days, the several restaurants they operate are still running strong with the next generation. The couple’s three sons all play a very active role in the day to day operations.

After an iconic 25 years, Busalacchi’s on Fifth closed and A Modo Mio was a planned rebuild from the ground up just a few blocks away on the corner of Fifth and Pennsylvania. The successful redesign of the concept, menu and price points prove, once again, the Busalacchi’s are the top family in town.

This revamped addition to Hillcrest is exactly what the neighborhood needed. The Tuscan style villa brings a comfortable dining room with soft colors of mustard yellow and punches of rosy red. The large outside patio is phenomenal with a fire wall in the middle that has a stream of water coming right out of it; a play on fire and ice. The soft cushions on the chairs make it feel like you are in someone’s backyard. The genius installation of heaters above makes this the best place to grab a bite all year round.

I have been multiple times since it’s opening in early May with small parties and large ones. Each time was divine and left me wanting more. The seasonal menu will change often, keeping the affordable dishes (most everything is under $20) fresh and simple. Antipastos are presented in an a la carte manner allowing you to choose from a selection of meats, cheeses and a delicious array of various pickled vegetables, all starting around $3 a sample. This is a great way to start your table off.

If heading right into the first courses is your thing, dive into the Crudo di Pesce ($11). Pieces of fresh and raw ahi tuna were a beautiful dark red and topped with a slice of jalapeño that gave an interesting bite of heat that I absolutely loved. Big beautiful beefsteak tomatoes were sliced thick for the Caprese Salad ($9) and lined together with fresh mozzarella and a chiffonade of basil. Carpaccio di Bue ($11) was classically served paper thin and topped with a lemon caper dressing. My dining companions have told me the beet salad is the best in town.

Entrées are divided in the Italian way of pasta, fish and meats. One of my all time favorite dishes is Linguine alle Vongole ($15). A bowl with a heaping pile of fresh pasta arrived swimming in a light sauce of white wine, garlic and olive oil. Big bright clams lined the rim of the bowl and had a briny sweet flavor. A recent special of halibut was offered. The perfectly cooked piece of the white flaky fish was topped with a tomato olive sauce that offered just the right amount of acidity to the dish.

For meat lovers, the Cotoletta alla Milanese ($19) will remind you of something your mother would make, in a good way. Flattened to about a quarter inch, the lightly breaded chop is seared on both sides, leaving the inside juicy for every bite. Veal Medallions ($17) are predictably served in a marsala sauce and a classic Filet ($20) makes an appearance on the menu as well.

The two drawbacks I feel were the wine list and service, both something very few restaurants in San Diego can master. With such outstanding Italian food, I was hoping for that perfect Italian wine, both red and white. Sadly, I was disappointed. Although the service was efficient, on all occasions I felt it lacked personality. I am hoping that these things are just growing pains of a new restaurant and will iron themselves out as it grows.

As the Busalacchi family continues to grow, with even the next generation, let’s hope we can look forward to many more years of their restaurant dynasty. And Joe, the patriarch of them all, continues to pass down the integrity he has shown to us over the years, and clearly A Modo Mio has been done his way.

A Modo Mio
3707 Fifth Ave.
San Diego, CA 92103
619-298-0119

Tao’s handmade tofu rice pot

With only weeks before Pride, we all are watching our calories and carb intake so we are in the best shape to walk down University Avenue with our shirts off. For me, it is cutting out meat, eating a ton of vegetables, loading up on proteins and doing as much cardio as I can.

Normally on a Friday night, my friends and I get together for dinner in some restaurant in town. A few weeks ago, when I suggested we try a vegetarian restaurant, I thought everyone was about to drop their drinks. Begrudgingly they obliged, and at the end, they were glad they did.

Tao is labeled as a Vietnamese and Japanese restaurant and is hidden in a little spot on Adams Avenue in Normal Heights. Never once did I consider even reviewing the place since it is so out of the box from the norm. Alas, the food blew me away on every occasion so I must share with everyone this little secret.

Now don’t expect to go and see an over-designed and expensive costing dining room that we see in a lot of restaurants in San Diego. Think East Village or Chinatown neighborhoods in NYC in the ’80s and you will understand the style. This is a simple place and they make no excuses as to what and who they are.

With barely enough seating for 40, the tables line the walls that are loaded with graffiti of quips and autographs from the many patrons this place has seen over the years. There is no artwork for sale and the latest trendiest paint color is not on the walls, but the rawness of the room creates the charm and what put this restaurant on the map for me is its food.

Having a menu as large as they do, I was surprised to see how tasty everything was and at the value that it was offered. With entrées ranging from $8.99-$12.99, I was astonished at the portions and generosity seen. As you sit down every table is greeted with a complimentary house salad with fresh chunks of tofu and crisp fresh greens that are dressed in sweet vinaigrette.

The list of appetizers is truly a taste of Asia. Everything from satay’s of beef to miso soup to garlic chicken wings, it’s all there and delicious. A must try are the Wrap It Yourself Salad Rolls ($10). Served in fresh rice paper, with lettuce, mints, bean sprouts, cilantro and rice noodles, they are all rolled up with your choice of protein.

There must be at least 30 entrées to choose from, so ordering can be a bit overwhelming. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, the staff are great and incredibly helpful. The menu is broken out in two ways, vegetarian and non-vegetarian. I will suggest however, you order your entrée vegetarian with tofu. This has to be the best tofu I have ever had: it is handmade fresh, daily.

Tofu braised in a Black Bean Sauce and Asian Kale ($10.50) came to my table with a large piece of tofu, atop perfectly cooked black beans, white (or brown rice) and topped with Asian Kale. The combination of flavors was explosive; I couldn’t get enough of the rich bean sauce. Another interesting flavor combination was the Tofu in a Sizzling Citrus Sauce ($10.50). The sweet and tangy sauce was intoxicating with the zucchini, asparagus and ginger. A sure show stopper.

If sauces aren’t your thing, try a rice pot. Tao’s handmade Tofu Rice Pot ($12) is to die for. Nothing is better for you than a big heaping bowl of steaming vegetables and tofu. Zucchini, shiitake mushrooms and broccoli are just a few of the vegetables that come in this cast iron bowl. I could eat this dish every day.

If you absolutely won’t try tofu or vegetarian cuisine, all the dishes also come with the option of chicken, beef or seafood. But I do urge you to try the tofu as you will not be disappointed.

DINING REVIEW
Tao
3332 Adams Ave,
San Diego, CA 92116
619-281-6888